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Read Terry's adventures when he purchased Gidgee and Snakewood (see also newsletter July 04)

Newsletter September 08
I will be again displaying my tools at the  The
Melbourne Timber and Working with Wood Show is on 24th-26th October 08. The venue for this years show has changed to the Royal Melbourne Showgrounds at Flemington.  Please call in for a chat and see my demonstrations.

Australian Wood Review has just announced its AWR Hand Tool Making Awards III competition. The competition is open to all tool makers. Entries can fall into the categories of hand planes, chisels, marking and measuring tools, and jigs and devices. The only stipulation is that they must not be currently available for purchase. AWR#38 and #49 featured the brilliant results of previous competitions. All details and entry forms are at: http://www.woodreview.com.au Just click on the AWR Hand Tool Awards III competition icon. Entries close April 7, 2009.
 I now have available High Speed Steel blades for Aussie Jack Planes (50x95x4mm) @ AU $110 + post. They are  on the web site order form.

Newsletter July 08
I will be attending the wood shows in Perth  on 8 -10 August and Canberra on 5-7 September. Please come and visit my stand to see demonstrations and my range of tools.

A reminder that I offer  saw sharpening for the Adria saws that we sell. Prices for sharpening are on the web. If you are attending the Canberra wood show and need your saw sharpened, bring it along and I will sharpen it on returning to my premises and then post it back to you.  Remember sharp saws are like sharp plane blades!

I have some firm orders for the Hollows and Rounds which I intend to make before the Melbourne wood show (24-26 Oct).  If you would like to place an order to be included in this batch please email me.  These can be ordered singularly, in pairs or in sets.

If you haven't visited the Bargain Planes page on the website recently, now is a good time as there a nice variety of specialty woods on offer.

Also please remember if you are travelling up this way for work or holidays you are more than welcome to visit our showroom and workshop to look at or try out some tools.   


Newsletter May 08         Hollows and Rounds
I have successfully tested the ½”, ¾” and 1” hollows and rounds. All sizes will be 9” long and made in gidgee, except for special orders. Currently I am making the blades up and I will have the planes available for demonstration at the Brisbane (16-18 May) and Sydney (13-15 June) Wood shows.

The hollows and rounds will cost AU $ ½ inch $160 ea, ¾ inch $170 and 1 inch $180. They will be made to order at this stage so allow about 1 – 2 months from time of ordering to supply. Orders can be made by email, the planes will not be put on the web site ordering system at this stage.

I’m hoping to have the 1 ¼ inch size available for demonstration and orders from the Melbourne (24-26 October) wood show.

There will be 4 standard sizes but if you require sizes in between these will available in 2009. The other sizes available will be in 1/8” increments but they will cost more due to the fact that the standard size blades will need to be ground down and the body reduced to suit. I suspect these additional cost will be about $40. To view photos, click here.

I still have a few ironwood planes left, mainly shoulder planes, a few spoke shaves, new Jack plane and palm smoothers. At the Brisbane show I will be clearing these out at 10 – 15% of the normal price.

 
Newsletter March 08
For any school teachers looking for a rewarding project for their classes this year we have in stock Aussie Jack and Block kit planes available from $40. To receive the special price we require a minimum order of 5 kits. Please inquire for details.

The 2008 Australian Quality Tools catalogue will be available in April. The 20 page colour catalogue will feature all the toolmakers from 2007 plus Harold and Saxon Chisel and Tool Company. If you would like the 2008 version posted to you, please email us with your postal address and include in the subject you would like the 2008 copy.

I received some feedback on the blade angle newsletter that I put out in the last month which backed up my experience that blades sharpened with a bevel angle greater than 40 degrees presented problems with planing hardwoods. I would also like to hear about any experience that subscribers might have had that go against my findings. It is all interesting stuff so please let me know of your experience in this regard. Thanks to the woodworkers that gave me some feedback on the blade angle issue.

I am getting closer to starting work on manufacturing some hollows and rounds and I have a small group of people who are interested in buying them. I plan to make them in ½”, ¾” 1” and 1 ¼” sizes. They will be available to purchase individually, in pairs or a set of 8 planes. If you are interested please let me know, as it will help me to work out what size first batch I will need to do. I hope to have some prices available in next month’s newsletter.

For those that like old tools and machines, please follow the link to take a look at a 16” jointer that I recently restored. From what I can make out from the internet I think this machine is some where between 100 to 120 years old. It has been modified over the years with new style bearings but the basic machine is like it was all those years ago and works like a dream. Happy Woodworking  Regards Terry

 
Newsletter February 08
All the best for 2008 and I hope you get some of those woodworking projects underway and hopefully finished.
HNT Gordon moves into a new era this year whereby we are now using gidgee as the main wood for making planes. I still have a few ironwood planes left and you will probably see them come up on the bargain pages over the year.
We now produce 15 different planes + the two kit planes. We are very happy with how the spoke shaves and new A55's are going, and we think we have ironed all the bugs out of these newer tools.
For the woodworkers in Australia I look forward to seeing you at the wood shows but unfortunately for the overseas subscribers I can't see my way clear this year to get overseas to do any wood shows. Maybe next year.
If we can help you with your hand tools this year please feel free to contact us. Remembering besides planes we also stock a range of high quality marking out tools by Colen Clenton, Adria handsaws, Micheal Connor workbench accessories and some sharpening gear.
Follow this link on Blade Angles to the information that I promised last year. Hope you get something from it.

If you no longer wish to receive HNT Gordon newsletters, please reply with the subject Remove from Newsletter List. If you have a change of email address, please email me with both old and new addresses. Regards Terry Gordon Planemaker

PS. I had an unfortunate experience last year whereby a finance company through their slick use of fine print caused me to pay an extra large sum of money to take ownership of the equipment I was renting to buy. I am reluctant to put this in my newsletter but I would feel bad if one of my subscribers fell foul to the same type of thing. If you are (or you know someone that is) renting or leasing anything through a finance company it would be in your interests to contact me so I can let you know what happened to me and you may be able to avert a financial disaster.

 
Newsletter December 07
My staff and I would like to wish all subscribers a Merry Christmas and happy new year and thankyou for your support over the past year. I hope you have found the information in our newsletters informative and useful woodwork knowledge.  I am planning on doing the following Australian wood shows in 2008 - Brisbane, Sydney, Perth, Canberra and Melbourne. Please check the website for details. HNT Gordon will be closing down over the Christmas break, (end of trade Friday 21st December 2007 and re-opening Monday 7th January 2008), so if you email me or place an order during this period the response maybe 7 - 10 days for my reply. If you are visiting the Northern Rivers of NSW and wish to call in to the showroom please phone ahead and leave a message with a return phone number and I will see if I can meet you.  Happy woodworking.
Newsletter May 07
Well I thought I was going to give you some information on blade angles but it will have to wait as I’m waiting on some feedback from another chap regards some discrepancies that have crept into the terminology over the past few years.

Instead I will give an insight into how I made the new A55 planes. "A" meaning adjustable and 55 meaning a 55 degree blade pitch. Like the other planes I make you can also reverse the blade and make it into a scraper.

Ever had trouble adjusting a plane that has a lever cap and mechanical screw adjuster? I certainly have and it was a source of frustration when I used my No4 Stanley plane. The usual thing was when I got it adjusting nicely the blade was not held securely enough and would move back as I planed wood or conversely when I got it so the blade was held nice and tight it was impossible to get a smooth accurate adjustment. And when you think about it these two things are always in conflict. However, until I decided I was going to make a screw adjustable plane I never really though much about it. I’m a pretty black and white sort of fellow and grey usually doesn’t sit well with me especially when it comes to tools. So when I want the blade held tight I want it held tight and not compromised by having to move the blade while it is held tight. Similarly when I want to move the blade I want a smooth accurate adjustment so when I turn the knob I want a proportional movement in the blade. And same again I don’t want to compromise this in any way.

I certainly haven’t used every plane on the market today and there are probably some good quality planes out there that have appeared to achieve the compromise of being able to move the blade while holding the blade tight, but as far as I’m concerned there is still a compromise and when planing hardwoods it will probably let you down at some stage. The other thing to consider here is that if the lever cap is holding the blade securely enough so that it doesn’t move when planing hardwoods then there must be an incredible mechanical advantage in the adjuster to force the blade to move. To achieve this large mechanical advantage some parts involved must be highly stressed in some way, and to my thinking this stress must take its toll over many years and inevitably that part will wear or break.

It didn’t take me long to realise that to make a good adjustable plane I had to remove the compromise, whilst still making it a quick easy process to adjust the plane.

I knew from my other planes that a wedge system would certainly hold the blade securely so it was just a simple matter of coming up with a way of being able to quickly loosen or tighten the wedge. The penny dropped and a simple bolt (with a knurled knob) through the wedge would provide the quick and easy way of tightening or loosening the wedge. The swiveling brass abutments that I use in the other planes worked in just fine, as it was necessary for the abutments to swivel as the wedge was loosened or tightened. With a course thread on this bolt it was amazing how much pressure could be applied to hold the blade securely with less than a ¼ of a turn. I have purposely made the knurled knob fairly small so you can’t over tighten the wedge, as huge pressure is not required

Very simply the compromise was solved and all I need to do to make a depth adjustment on the plane is to loosen the wedge lever cap about 1/4 of a turn, do the adjustment which is nice and smooth because the blade is allowed to move freely, then re-tighten the lever cap wedge by a 1/4of a turn back the other way. All you need to do is get in a habit of loosening the lever cap before any adjustment. A point to make hear is that once you have set the depth, it will stay at that depth because the blade is now held securely without compromise. It is great to use a plane that you are not continuously readjusting the blade because the blade keeps moving.

The adjuster is also very simple. It has a very fine thread so the adjustment can be done in small increments and with accurate machining and assembly I am achieving 0 to 1/8 of a turn backlash which is really nice after you have used a plane that has 2 turns of backlash like my old Stanley. The other thing with this adjuster is that you can make adjustments in or out and the blade will hold nicely in position. With many adjusters because of the compromise you usually have to be advancing the blade to get it to sort of hold securely in position.

Another nice thing about this plane is that taking the blade in and out is very quick and easy with no need to adjust the lever cap holding screw to get the correct compromise.

The other part of the plane that I wanted to mention, which I feel has significant improvements over other planes on the market, is the shape we have used in the tote handle. Back in the old day’s tote handles were made so that you could use a plane all day and not get blisters or a sore wrist. Over the years the shape has been bastardised by manufacturers because they wanted to make the handle easier to make and as usual had economics in mind and not ergonomics. We have reversed this and have gone back to a shape similar to the old one so that at bench height when you push the plane the pressure is put mainly in the palm of your hand which is at the extension of your arm where the power from your upper body is concentrated. This is the most efficient way you can push something using your hand. At the same time the shape of the tote handle is such that your wrist will be straight when you push the plane horizontally at bench height. All so often I pick up a modern plane with a tote handle and when you push it horizontally at bench height the pressure is applied to the web of your hand between your thumb and index finger, so when you plane your wrist will bend. This is OK for short periods of planing but if you do it for long you will get a sore wrist and possibly wear a blister in that spot. This is not rocket science but I am amazed at the poor shape of some tote handle today.

Hopefully this newsletter has given you an insight to how we strive to make planes better for the users. These new planes can be seen by Aussie customers at most of the major wood shows this year or by visiting our workshop. I have started sending a few planes out to overseas shops but it will take a while for them to filter through and be available in the USA and Europe. There are some good photos now on our website www.hntgordon.com.au if you wish to take a look.

If anyone has some questions about the new planes feel free to contact me.

 NEWSLETTER FEBRUARY 07
It has taken a while to get to this news letter but the good news is that I have made some improvements to the Aussie jack plane with the addition of a tote handle and made it slightly longer. I think this will make it an easier plane to hold for the roughing out work that it does. In addition to that I have made a new smoothing and trying plane which are the more traditional western design with a tote handle and knob and they are fully adjustable by way of a screw adjuster. There should be some info on the website about them in the near future with sales starting some time in mid to late March. Visit www.hntgordon.com.au/newproducts.htm

These planes are not to replace the current smoother and trying planes but are to satisfy another part of the market that like the more western style planes.

Some other changes that are occurring at HNT Gordon planes this year are the phasing out of ironwood as the main wood used in plane making and in 2008 gidgee will become the main wood used for plane making. This is because I now have a reliable supply of gidgee, which I help harvest, to ensure it is looked after from the word go. This ensures that when the end product gets to the user it is the best I can produce and I don’t have to fight the past problems associated with getting ironwood that has lots of defects to deal with. Anyone that has an ironwood plane should not see this as a problem because during the plane making process I have ironed out any defects that were present in the ironwood to ensure you got a defect free plane. This will however save me time not having to deal with defects and getting a plane to the point of finishing it only to find a hairline crack in the wood which is very frustrating and leads to having to sell the plane as a second.

Additionally I have had to withdraw ebony as a main wood for production planes this year as the cost of this wood has clearly put it into the specialty plane category. So ebony planes will be available but they will be made to the specialty standard making them more expensive.

Also in March we will be launching the 2007 full colour catalogue. This year 6 Quality Australian Toolmaker’s – Colen Clenton, Peter Collins, Micheal Connor, Roger Gifkins, Terry Gordon and Paul Williams have come together and will all feature in the one catalogue. If you wish to have a catalogue sent to you, please request one via the following link. www.hntgordon.com.au/freebrochure.htm

The next newsletter will have some information on blade angles. Happy Woodworking  Regards Terry

 NEWSLETTER SEPTEMBER 06

This newsletter is on Straight Edges and Squares and sorry it is a bit late in coming but in any case I hope the newer woodworkers will find it handy information. Some of the more seasoned wood workers will probably be aware the pitfalls with marking out tools but this may be a timely reminder to check your tools are still in good shape.

These two basic tools are certainly very important for achieving accuracy in our woodwork. If you are anything like me when I started out making furniture from wood you will probably make some very poor assumptions about the accuracy of the tools you are buying.

When I was getting started I purchased a square and straight edge, both with reputable brand names and it certainly didn’t cross my mind that I should check that they were straight and square. (Nor did I know how to) As I progressed with my woodwork using these tools to ensure I was getting things straight and square, I frequently came across situations where it just didn’t make sense from a straight and square perspective. Still I trusted these supposedly good quality tools and just put theses problems down to my lack of wood working skill and understanding of what is straight and square.

When someone finally suggested that I should check that my straight edge and square were actually like they were supposed to be, I was a little bit shocked to think that my good quality tools could be inaccurately made. In any case I checked them for square and straight and in both cases they were out, and I now understood why for many years I couldn’t get things exactly straight and square. I was a bit embarrassed to say the least. I laugh about it now, but I was thinking the other day I should let as many people know as possible about this issue, and whilst a lot of our subscribers would know about this problem there are lots of new woodworkers that will benefit from ensuring their squares and straight edges are actually like they are meant to be.

To check these things out there are a couple of simple little tests to do which I will explain with a couple of photos on our website. Follow these links and I will explain how it is done. http://www.hntgordon.com.au/checkingyourstraightedge.htm http://www.hntgordon.com.au/checkingyoursquare.htm

The Canberra wood show is on this weekend 8 – 10 September at Exhibition Park, Budawang Building Canberra. I will be demonstrating my planes, Colen Clenton tools and the Adria saws at stand 60 near Carba Tec. I will have some Paul William replacement blades also, so bring your old one along if you want to check the right size before buying one. Hope to see you there if you live in the Canberra area.

The Melbourne wood show is also just around the corner on 20 –22 Oct. At this show Colen Clenton and I will have a couple of other new tool makers show off their new whares at our stand No 157. One is Making chisels and the other a jig for sharpening all types of blades and chisels. Hope to see you there also. Happy Woodworking   Regards Terry

NEWSLETTER MAY 06

For those people near the Sydney area, I am attending the Timber and Working with Wood Show at the Royal Hall of Industries, Moore Park, Sydney on 2nd to 4th June. My stand number is 53 (which has changed recently) and I hope you will be able to visit my stand to see demonstrations and a chat. As you come in the main entrance keep walking straight and you will find us in about the middle of the hall.

About 12 months ago I managed to get some Budgeroo Burl and Red Malley. I have made a lovely plane in each wood so far which you can view at www.hntgordon.com.au/index.html  I do have a limited supply of this wood if any one wishes to order a specialty plane. Please contact me via an email.

I recently went on a trip to western Queensland to get some Gidgee wood – a great trip. Follow this link to read my story. www.hntgordon.com.au/gidgee.htm

NEWSLETTER MARCH 06

This story is unrelated to planes but none the less it is a worthy woodwork story that may help you out with your bandsaw if you own one.

Two years ago I was having trouble cutting up some large pieces (up to 12" thick) of ironwood and ebony on my 36" band saw. In essence the bandsaw blades I was using just couldn’t cope with cutting these very hard and dense woods. I tried a myriad of blade types – carbon steel and bi-metal of various tooth configurations. The bi-metal blades lasted about 4 hours of cutting but it was hard going and the carbon blades were lucky to last and hour. In the mean time my mate Micheal Connor came across a tungsten tip bandsaw blade made by Lennox in the USA. He purchased a 3-4 TPI variable pitch tungsten tip blade (this means there are 3 teeth per inch followed by 4 teeth per inch) and it had a 3/8" wide band. He nearly had a heart attack when he had to pay for it, but when he got it home and got it running he was a happy camper. The finish cut on medium density wood was comparable to being sawn by a quality bench saw. Without hesitation I was round to his workshop with some ironwood. It effortlessly cut this ironwood and left a superb finish, I was amazed to say the least.

After a couple of beers with Mike I was convinced this blade was the answer to my problems of cutting up large pieces of dense hardwoods.

I purchased a 3 TPI tungsten tipped blade and gave it a try. It cut the ebony beautifully but on the large pieces of ironwood it was struggling and in the end the ironwood started to rip the tungsten tips of the blade – not good. I needed some expert advice so I contacted Louis Ittura, who is the bandsaw guru in the USA. You can contact him at email KALLL@comcast.net or a USA Phone number is 904 642 2802.

I explained the problem and what bandsaw I had and he said "Upgrade the tension spring in your bandsaw and use a 3-4 TPI blade with a 1" wide band and buy a tension meter so you can accurately set the tension to 25 –30 000 PSI." To cut a long story short I did what he recommended and this blade has been on my bandsaw for about 12 months and is still going strong. I spent about AU $400 to get the blade, spring and tension meter but it has paid for itself and more. I can accurately cut up all my expensive woods with minimal kerf waste < 1.5mm, the finish saves me time when machining wood in the next step, I save time by not having to change band saw blades on a regular basis and the effort and time to push the wood through the blade is significantly reduced.

If you have a band saw and you are not satisfied with how it works fitting one of these blades and having it run at the right tension could convert your bandsaw into a superb tool you can use in furniture making. And at about US$1 per inch of blade it is well worth getting one. Also these blades can be re sharpened; however, I haven’t had this done as yet.

Lious Ittura has a catalogue he mails out and it is full of very good information on bandsaws and how to get them working well, this is also worth getting hold of.

I have been asked several times about making hollows and rounds, which are paired planes for making as you would expect long hollow or round shapes. They have several uses and used in conjunction with a rebate plane you can make some very nice and unique mouldings for furniture. Routers have largely done these planes out of a job but I was trying to gauge the thoughts of other woodworkers on whether you think they have a use in today’s furniture making. I would be looking at making them in ½", ¾", 1" and 1 ¼". Any comments or feedback would be appreciated.

We have made some changes to the HNT Gordon web site, which will make it easier for our users to navigate to pages commonly used. You will notice the ‘Collector Planes' and 'Unique Planes' options in the Tools Sales page has been replaced by 'Specialty Planes / Gallery'. The specialty planes are available for purchase as displayed while the gallery has the photos of planes previously made and sold for viewing. If you would like a plane made in any of the woods from the gallery, it will need to be ordered. A photo of the plane can be emailed to you for your approval of the wood colour/grain etc during the production stage if you wish. The reason for this change is that it is very hard to keep a full range of exotic woods available and the colours and grain patterns can very so much some pictures can be misleading as to what the next one will look like.

The Bargain Planes page will remain the same, so if you are after a bargain you will just have to keep an eye on it.

New for 2006 is an 8-page full colour catalogue. All the HNT Gordon planes are listed including specifications and purpose for each item. Colen Clenton's Tools, Adria Saws and other accessories are also included. You can view the first page at http://www.hntgordon.com.au/freebrochure.htm If you would like one posted to you, please email us ensuring you include your full postal address.

Last year we introduced the flat sole spokeshave and now HNT Gordon also has the curved sole spokeshave available. You can view the spokeshaves at http://www.hntgordon.com.au/prodspokeshave.htm

In 2006 I will be attending many of the woodshows offered in the capital cities of Australia. Dates, venues and stand numbers are listed at http://www.hntgordon.com.au/woodshowattendance.htm   Happy Woodworking Terry Gordon.

NEWSLETTER DECEMBER 2005

My staff and I would like to wish all subscribers a Merry Christmas and happy new year and thankyou for your support over the past year. I hope you have found the information in our newsletter informative and useful woodwork knowledge. 

 We have recently updated the website with a full range of Colen Clenton's marking out tools with some very good pictures and information on how to use them and why you would use a certain tool over any other.    This year I sent some ebony that I use in my planes down to Colen to use in making his tools.  Some of these ebony tools have started to become available on my website and will continue to be throughout 2006.   Please enquire if you are interested in any of Colen's tools in ebony.

In October this year we released the flat bottom spoke shave at the Melbourne wood show.    The response at this show was a bit tentative mainly due to the handle shape and consequently I have refined the shape some what but essentially it has remained a squarish shape due to the benefits outlined in my last newsletter.   Hopefully Aussie  woodworkers will warm to the handle shape so they can benefit from the ability of this shave to plane against the grain when planing curved shapes in furniture work.  Conversely at the two USA shows I attended in November this year the response was great and I sold out of the spoke shaves at the first show - interesting how these things work!

When I finish writing this news letter I will be out to the workshop to continue making the curved sole spoke shave.   I have pretty much nailed down how I will make it with a full brass sole.   I ended up making the radius 3" which was a good compromise to optimise it for furniture work.   It won't be able to get into those real tight areas but it will handle the vast majority of curves found in furniture.   There are a few features that I want to try out when it is made and I will report back next year with the results.   I expect this tool will be available in Feb 2006.  In the USA, the flat bottom shave is available now through Craftsman Studio and the Japan Woodworker.  Also as a result of the two woodworking shows I did in the US both these stores have decided to stock the short shooting board made by Micheal Connor.

For some time now I have been collecting the straightest and best pieces of Ironwood from big trees to release a Jointing plane.   I have been making  a few on special orders but I have decided to add them to my standard line of planes in 2006 but only available in ironwood, but the odd one may be available in gidgee and ebony on a special order.   The standard length will be 27" long but they can be shorted a little if required depending on peoples requirements.   This plane will take over where the trying plane (small jointer) starts to struggle which is at about the 6' (1.8m) mark for jointing boards.   So if you are into making  long tables this plane will be a benefit.

I am planning on doing more Aussie wood shows in 2006 including Brisbane, Sydney, Perth, Melbourne and possibly Canberra.   Please check the website for details.

 HNT Gordon will be closing down over the Christmas break, so if you email me or place an order during this period the response time maybe 7 to 10 days for my reply. If you are visiting the Northern Rivers of NSW and wish to call in to the showroom, please phone ahead and leave a message with a return phone number and I will see if I can meet you.  Happy Woodworking  Terry Gordon.

NEWSLETTER #9 SEPTEMBER 05

In this newsletter I would like to share the experience of making a flat bottom spoke shave and point out to woodworkers what I found to be the important parts to a spoke shave that has good controllability and can produce the goods when it comes to planing from a straight wood surface into a  curved wood surface without tearout or loosing control of the cut leaving you with that smooth desirable finish.   

 At this point I would like to say there is no perfect spoke shave the same as the is no perfect plane that can do all tasks. But like the other planes that I make I feel I have produced a tool that is very easy to setup and adjust, it can plane against the grain on most woods and has good controllability which is rare with a lot of spoke shaves on the market. This spokeshave has a 50mm (2") wide blade that is 4mm thick, so no problems with chatter and a wide blade for the big to small tasks.  

 I have put a brass sole on it for a couple of reasons, the first being the ability to resist wear which became an obvious problem when I started to shape some hard pieces of wood using a proto type wooden sole shave.  This is not a problem on a wooden sole plane  as you have a much larger surface area working on a flat surface, but this is not the case with a spoke shave.  The other reason was so that I could close up the space behind the blade, not something you will see in other spoke shaves but it proved to be a huge bonus with controllability when doing the outside of a curved surface.  The gap in the sole where the blade protrudes is less than 3 mm (1/8")  and on most spokeshaves this is about 5mm or more. The mouth opening is the same as my smoothers, 0.3mm optimum with a maximum of 0.5mm. By reducing the total  gap in the sole to less than 3mm improves controllability as it is easier to find the blade when you are doing outside curves and the depth of cut is much more constant as you go from a flat surface to a curved surface.   This is where a lot of spoke shaves have control and tearout problems because the large gap in the sole leads to the depth of cut increasing as you go into the curve, and while it is only a very small change in depth it can be enough to cause tearout and/or make it hard to control the shave as the depth of cut changes.  I feel this is a large improvement on the spoke shaves that I have used. 

 The next difference of my shave to the others is a higher blade angle.   I have opted for 55 degrees.   60 degrees proved to be too high and caused controllability problems and 50 degrees proved to be a problem for tearout.   The 55 degrees proved to be a great compromise angle.   Most spoke shaves you will have used will have been 45 - 50 degrees in the Stanley metal type, or very low angle at 20 -25 degrees in the old wooden types or the new veritas type.  The low angle type are certainly very good with the grain and if you are making straight grain spokes going with the grain they are hard to beat, but they are very average as soon as you come against the grain.  The standard Stanley type shaves, particularly ones with small soles and high handles, had control problems and tearout was present in most cases.

 For controllability I have put a maximum  amount of sole in front of the blade as I could (24mm) and this certainly improved control when the shave is used to do large radius internal curves or flat surfaces.

 The handle shape on the HNT Gordon spoke shave is also to do with controllability.   Whist the handles may look a bit squarish and bulky they are a Huge advantage with controlling the spoke shave.  The top of the handle is parallel with the sole and the front and back of the shave is 90 degrees to the sole giving you a great set of references to help you find the blade on curved surfaces.  Hand eye coordination is very important with using a spoke shave and I felt this style handle offered a great reference to help you keep the blade cutting on a curved surface.   I'm not 100% sure why this is but I feel it lies in the fact that our mind and hands can handle parallel and 90 degree problems but change it to a more complex angle from 0 - 90 degree and our hand eye coordination computations start to falter. The handle is also very low set down with the blade.  This is essential for control. 

 Sadly I couldn't include my usual scraper function with the spoke shave as there was control problems with doing it and it stopped me from closing the gap on the sole which was important for control issues.   As such this spoke shave is not capable of planing against the grain on curved shapes once you get up into the dense cranky woods such as jarrah etc.   It did handle a quite hard oak (suspect it was American White Oak) and planed against the grain on an outside curve without too much difficulty.   If I get feedback that customers want a spoke shave to do the most difficult woods I will look at doing a scraper spoke shave.

 However, my next tool will be the round bottom shave and I was looking at about a 3"  to 5" radius on the sole but I will experiment with this, and any feedback from subscribers is welcome on what they have found to be a good radius.   Also I will make it so that you can modify the radius to suit a particular task if required.

 The setup of the shave is the same as the other planes I make and adjusted by taping the body in front of the throat and the adjustment works very well for fine adjustment. This is a welcome bonus if you are familiar with a Stanley No 64 which I have done a lot of my spoke shave work with, for those not familiar with the Stanley 64 it is a bitch to adjust.

 This shave is capable of taking very fine shaving through to quite thick shavings (0.3mm) making it quite versatile on a variety of jobs. Spokeshaves in ironwood with a TS blade start at $150. To view the spokeshave, go to www.hntgordon.com.au/prodspokeshave.htm

 Thankyou to those readers in the US that replied to my request to borrow a workbench for the woodshows. I have a bench now and am really looking forward to this visit. If you can attend one of the shows, please come and make yourself known to me, I am always glad to meet other wood workers. The dates are  28 - 30 Oct for San Mateo and  4 - 6 Nov for the Costa Mesa Show.

 At the Melbourne Wood show, on 7 - 9 October, I am in stand no. 157. I have just received 5 Ebony handle saws from Adria Toolworks and will be bringing them to Melbourne. I will have 2 Dovetail $220 ea, 2 RIP and 1 X Cut $240 ea. If any readers are attending the show and have special requests for my tools, please advise ASAP so I can pack it with my stock.  Happy Woodworking,  Terry Gordon. 

 NEWSLETTER #8 AUGUST 05

Latter this year I will be exhibiting at the San Mateo and Costa Mesa Woodworking shows in California USA. The dates are  28 - 30 Oct for San Mateo and  4 - 6 Nov for the Costa Mesa Show.   If you are from around these areas it would be great to meet you.   I will be bringing a full range of planes to demonstrate and sell, including some planes made from the rare and beautiful Australian and exotic woods. I have been putting aside some tools made from the nicest woods I have including some snakewood. With a bit of luck I may have my new spoke shave available by then also.   Additionally I will be bringing some of Colen Clenton's Marking Out tools including his adjustable Squares and Cutting/Marking Gauges.  If you haven't seen his tools it will be worth a look to see why his tools are gaining a very good reputation world wide.

 If you are planning on coming to the show and you would like me to bring any particular planes over please let me know.  This will save you a bit on postage and paying by cash will help you twist my arm for a discount.

 Between the two woodworking shows I will have a bit of spare time so if anyone is involved in a woodworking group that is between San Francisco and San Diego I am happy to call in and demonstrate my tools and talk to your group about planes in general.   If this is of interest to anyone feel free to email me so we can see if we can work out a date that is suitable.

Lastly I may need to chase down a workbench to demonstrate on for the Costa Mesa Show.   If anyone lives close by and would like to loan their bench out for the weekend I would be happy to pay them by the way of a plane.   I will be able to pick the bench up and return it. 

Sorry I don't have any interesting bits about planing this time, getting the spoke shave designed and made is taking its toll.

Happy Woodworking. Regards Terry

NEWSLETTER #7 July 05

I have recently reviewed the Frequently Asked Questions and Answers web page and updated information on chip breakers and optimum mouth spacing for a smoothing plane.  The topic of mouth spacing is particularly subjective and many opinions abound on the subject but the more I learn about it the more convinced I have become that having a planing and scraping option in a plane is the best compromise to deal with tearout.  Go to http://www.hntgordon.com.au/faqs1.htm  to take a look at my latest thoughts on the subject.

There are a few rumours out there that I plan on releasing  2 spoke shaves this year. A flat bottom one and a curved one.  It is true as I started the rumour.   I have started to dry the wood for the spoke shaves and have nailed down the design.   I have also added a couple of machines to help make them and expect to make some proto types fairly soon.

Can't promise any date at this stage but I hoping to have them for the Melbourne show in October.    They will initially be available in ironwood, ebony and Gidgee and latter on I will make them available in the exotic woods as collector planes.  My challenge is to make a spoke shave that can plane against the grain so you can do curved surfaces by planing in one direction.   If anyone is interested in getting a HNT Gordon Spoke shave let us know and we will start a list.   There will be no obligation to buy the spoke shave by putting your name on the list, but it will help ensure you get one this year if that is your intention. Happy woodworking Regards Terry Gordon
 

NEWSLETTER #6 April 05

For those who live in the Sydney area, I am displaying and demonstrating my planes and other tools you see on my website at the 'Out of the Woodwork - A festival of traditional woodwork and rare trades' show on Saturday 7th and Sunday 8th May 05 at Rouse Hill Estate, Windsor Rd, Rouse Hill. The show is being hosted by the Historic Houses Trust.  It should be a very interesting show if you like using hand tools and I would say you will get a lot of good information from the demonstrators attending.  

This year I will not be having a stand at the Brisbane Working with Wood show because of an issue with the organisers, so I appologise in advance if you were wanting to talk to me about my planes.  However, my planes will be on display at Chris Vesper's Tool stand and Chris will be demonstrating my tools on limited basis. Paul Williams (Academy Saws) will also be helping Chris on his stand so if you need information about his replacement plane blades for old tools you will be about to catch him there. Please check my web site closer to the show dates (20 -22 May) for Chris' stand number. I will be attending the Sydney show in June.

Some time ago I sent some ebony to Eddie Sirotich who make the Adria saws and we now have some in stock with ebony handles.   They really do look very nice and don't expect they will last long.  We are still also stocking the Adria Saws with the standard Bubinga handles. There is a photo on the web site of an ebony handle saw. Ebony handle saws are AU $30 more than the Bubinga saws. http://www.hntgordon.com.au/adriatoolworks.htm

Colen Clenton has given me some of his tools that he believes are not up to first rate. These tool will be for sale via my website as they become available. Colen has an extremely high standard so if you are lucky enough to purchase a bargain tool of Colen's you will still have a fine looking tool as they will generally only have a minor visual blemish. I will be selling these items at the standard discounted rate I sell my bargain planes for ie 15% off the retail price plus postage.

Last Friday I was again involved in judging the hand tool competition run by the Australian Wood Review, and boy we have some talented people out there.   Do yourself a favour and get hold of the AWR magazine when it comes out in Jun and take a look.

Until next time, happy woodworking and of course feel free to contact me if you want any specific information.

NEWSLETTER #5 March 05

It has taken a while for me to get to writing this newsletter, simply because I've been very busy with making planes and expanding the business is some small ways.  So sorry it has taken so long to send out another newsletter to you.

A couple of years ago I was involved with judging a tool competition run by the Australian Wood Review (AWR)  Magazine and it was very successful with some very good tools being submitted from Australia and overseas.  Due to the success of the last competition they are running this competition again.   I personally think there is lots of potential for other woodworkers  out there to make a living out of making high quality tools and this competition could be a springboard for anyone contemplating this idea.  So if you have made any hand tools or jigs or would like to make some  the closing date is approaching pretty fast.   Go to this link for some more information.   http://www.woodreview.com.au/competitions/handtool/

The age old argument about how wide the mouth on a plane should be still comes up occasionally and I still believe there is no perfect answer for all the different woods we plane,  using all the different tools with various blade angles and blades made from various steels.   But I did have a case recently where a chap had a HNT Gordon smoothing plane with a 0.5 mm mouth spacing and was getting some tearout on some figured Tasy Oak which is a Eucalypt not actually an Oak.

I made another plane for him with a  0.15mm mouth spacing which solved the problem.   So this was a definite case where the very small mouth spacing did the job. The only problem with this is that this plane will be very much limited to taking very fine shavings and the shaving may catch on occasions.   That being said this fellow had a particular task and was happy to accept the other issues.   I would be happy to make a plane for anyone who requires this size mouth spacing.   However, my experience tells me that a mouth spacing of 0.3 to 0.5 mm (which is my tolerance for a smoother) is still the best all round spacing for a smoother.    I say this because if a wood has a tendency to tearout with a 0.3 mm mouth spacing in a plane with a 60 degree blade pitch,  as a general rule it is probably a wood better suited to smoothing with a scraper.    Which is simply achieved by reversing the blade in a HNT Gordon Plane.   In any case If you have trouble smoothing a particular wood I would be happy to hear about it as it builds up the overall picture on how to best use planes to smooth wood.  And where possible I will help you solve your problem.

I am currently writing an article for the Australian Wood Review on sharpening and some interesting bits came out of it as I analysed how I actually went about sharpening  lots of blades as part of making planes.    Quite often when you do something on a regular basis you don't really think about how you are achieving it and as a consequence when you show  someone or describe it to someone there are lots of little but important things that are missed or not passed on to the other person.   This story will come out in about May and is worth reading if you would like to improve your sharpening and it will dispel some of the myths that have developed with sharpening over the years, from what I believe is largely due to sales people trying to sell certain sharpening products.

NEWSLETTER #4 July 04

 Now the woodshows have started, time just seems to be slipping away.   For any subscribers in Adelaide,  Perth and Canberra, be aware those shows are just around the corner.  Full details are on the website at www.hntgordon.com.au/woodshowattendance.htm, and I will be there at all shows.   Remember talking to me at these shows is a great way of learning about the HNT Gordon planes you have, and picking up little tips on using planes can save you lots of time in the workshop. Not to mention improving your woodwork projects.

 At the coming woodshows (except Adelaide as I will be a guest on MIK stand) I will also have: Colen Clenton's marking out tools, Micheal Connors Woodworks workbench and accessories, Paul Williams (Academy) replacement HSS irons for most of the old Stanley/Record planes, and some new hand crafted hand saws made by a chap in Canada.  All these tools are made by talented craftsman who value their reputation hence make tools with quality in mind.  I have personally used these tools and can recommend them without hesitation.  

 The Snakewood Saga

 I recently travelled to the USA to pick up some snakewood (Piratinera guianensis) which I plan to make planes out of.  I suspect it is the most expensive wood in the world and after my experience with buying 300 kg of this wood I now know why. I will share my snakewood story with you and I suspect you will appreciate why anything made from this wood should be treasured and looked after.   For those wood nuts amongst you this story may give you an insight into how crazy things can get when you start collecting certain woods.

 Besides the fact that Snakewood is very beautiful and extremely unique this wood is very hard to acquire.    There are many pitfalls with it and the lady that I purchased it from told me early in our negotiations that it is not only called snakewood because it looks like snakeskin, but this wood can bite you very badly, with the venom testing the resilience of your finances if you are not careful.    After waiting about 18 months (with a large deposit paid) I was off to the USA to look at the snakewood. After tuning up an 18 inch Taiwanese Bandsaw at the Lumber Yard  I was able to cut the logs into manageable sizes and I was very relieved to know that the wood I had spent considerable money on was very good quality wood in sizes large enough to make all the different size planes without too much wastage. What a relief!  I managed (with some tense moments) to get some snakewood back on the Qantas Jet with me, but the majority of the wood is still in transit on a ship so the saga continues.  I'm not celebrating yet but I do feel a sense of being lucky in this case so far after hearing a story from a wood merchant in Los Angeles. This wood merchant purchased 6000 pounds of snakewood only to get 600 pounds of good quality snakewood (10% recovery).  The rest was second and third grade wood which is very difficult to sell.  This can happen because this wood can crack very easily if it is not looked after very carefully (read treat with kids gloves)  after it is cut down and quite often large parts of the logs don't have any snakeskin like figure in them. If this is the case and the figure is fairly plain you certainly can't demand high prices for the objects you make just because it is called snakewood. 

 Ensuring there is good figure in the whole log is very difficult just by looking at the log, you may see the snakeskin look on the outside of the log (which is a positive sign) but this may be just skin deep and the rest could be quite plain.   The best way to check there is good figure through the log is to clean up both ends of the log so you can see the growth rings clearly.   The end of the log will generally be a dark reddish  brown colour and from the centre or pith of the log you will see like a bomb burst of black lines emanating to the outside of the log.   If these lines stop half way out so will the nice figure.   So if you can see the nice figure on the outside of the log and this bomb burst figure extending all the way out on the ends of the log it is a "beauty"!  Or at least it should be a good one and you have done all you can to ascertain what the figure is like.   If your wood merchant will split the log in half this will give you a better idea.   I suspect for most woodworkers who just want a single piece of snakewood the best bet is to buy a piece cut to size.   Snake wood is sold by weight and cut to size it costs about 4 times as much compared to buying it in log form.  But unless you know what you are looking for, paying more for a piece cut to size is a very smart option.

 As I mentioned acquiring the snakewood is difficult, it comes from the top end of South America, Surinam, Venezuela and a couple of other countries close by.  It would appear from some of the correspondence I had with the lady I purchased the wood from that it is very difficult to deal with wood merchants in these countries, email is not in use and correspondence is by written letter.  In addition the changing customs laws in the USA due to terrorism are making life difficult also.  Below are 2 emails I recieved from "The Lumber Lady" who operates from YUMA Arizona USA..

 Email 1

 "Hi Terry -
Thought you could use a little update on the Snakewood drama.  From what I have gathered from speaking with my import broker and what I have been reading, combined with what my Snakewood supplier has been saying, it seems the U.S. Customs Bureau has mandated that any import shipments have to be by the container load only; and that small shipments are no longer permissible because there are a limited number of inspectors and they want to be sure to be able to inspect every shipment for drugs, weapons, and .....terrorists or terrorist-oriented activities. From the standpoint of security this makes a lot of sense, but from my standpoint, it creates some inconvenience as these regulations have taken place just in the last few weeks; and were instituted so swiftly and arbitrarily that they caught everyone by surprise. Furthermore, the inspection procedures have been complicated by another regulation that advance electronic notification has to precede all shipments, and some shipments have been caught halfway betwixt and between... while the red tape of retroactive notification is being activated. What this means is that my supplier must only ship a certain amount of material.  What he is going to do is ship everyone's orders to me and I will disburse them.  This will allow him to combine all his shipments into one.  The one shortcoming of this idea is that he has to wait until he has enough orders to combine to warrant this manner of shipping.  He will need 14 orders about the size of ours and so far he has about 8 of those strung together.  This all is likely to create some further delay.  But, since it is going to cost him $1,200.00 to ship the full container, (as opposed to $65.00 in the past) the only recourse is either to kick in the additional  $1,200.00 shipping or wait a little longer.   He has already purchased 600 lbs of Snakewood logs to send, so any notion of his refunding my deposit (and I suggested it) is without merit as he has spent the money and cannot expect any refund from HIS supplier. As I had previously said, I have been dealing with this person for about 4 years and he has always come through like a champ for me, so I reckon the thing to do is keep calm and wait until the situation irons itself out.  I imagine small shipping agents like FedEx and UPS will scream their heads off and changes will ultimately be made.  In the meantime I will join in the fray by writing to my congressman stating a particularly unfriendly response to these changes. If you have any questions or suggestions, I am certainly open to new ideas, as is my supplier."

 Email 2

 "Hi Terry -I am copying  the letter I received today from my Snakewood supplier.   I'll let you know when I hear from my import broker.
Kindest Regards,
Judith"

Dear Judith, I'm sorry for not responding earlier because my papers, licenses, were still a problem but we are now ready and stronger than before. This has cost me a lot of money and prayer to settle and OUR LORD has provided in all my needs. I am also thankful to you for the patience and support that you gave me and that our business and relationship will get on a higher level, because it's not the money we earn makes us, but righteousness based on the truth. We have your wood ready for shipment on Monday the 22nd of march. Once again, my apologies for the inconvenience.  
 

After this letter was sent  it still took to the end of May for the snakewood to arrive in Yuma Arizona.  It was like working in slow motion.

 I now have some snakewood in the kiln drying and trust me it is testing my skill level in drying wood.  To take a look at some photos of the snake wood go to www.hntgordon.com.au/snakewood.htm  on the website.

 I suspect when I make the first plane from this beautiful snakewood all will be forgotten and with a rush of blood to the head I will probably be crazy enough to do it again.   That's if my wife doesn't shoot me before hand.

 I hope you enjoyed this little story about buying snakewood,  I think it helps put in perspective why snakewood is so expensive.

 Until next time happy woodworking and remember if you have any questions etc about the tools I make and sell please feel free to contact me.

NEWSLETTER #3 May 04

 The year seems to be slipping away very quickly and with the Australian Woodworking shows starting very soon I'm sure the pace will only get faster.   For anyone attending the wood shows in the major capital cities please stop and say G'day.  The shows I will be attending and the stand No's are posted on the website at  www.hntgordon.com.au/woodshowattendance.htm

 In this newsletter I would like to impart some of my knowledge on planing a table top flat.   There are lots of ways to do this and my way is certainly not the only way but I hope you will find the information useful if you are planning on tackling this task in the near future.   Go to www.hntgordon.com.au/planingtabletop.htm to view this information.   There are some nice pictures and text to explain the process.

 When I started this task my main aim was to get the bench top flat so I could use the bench, but I also wanted to test out some plane blades which had been deep cryogenically treated.   Flattening  this top involved a lot of planing so it was a reasonable chance to test several different blades on the same piece of wood. I had two HSS 18% tungsten blades and two 01 Toolsteel blades all hardened to about Rc 62,  one of each type of blade were cryogenically treated and the other two were not.  After planing for 30 minutes with each blade I could not notice any difference in the blades ability to take a shaving and under a strong magnifying glass the wear on each edge looked very similar, in that they all had very small chips out of the edge randomly along its length.   I suspect all four blades could have kept planing for at least another 30 minutes without too much trouble.   However, when it came to doing the finishing passes with the smoothing plane I didn't consider any of the blades were sharp enough to get that perfectly smooth surface that requires no sanding.   Consequently I touched up one of the blades on a 6000 grit stone prior to doing the final smoothing.    Whilst this little exercise is inconclusive I am starting to get the feeling that cryogenically treated blades may not have some of the big advantages that some reports have indicated.   I am going to do some more tests, but I feel at this stage when it comes to the final smoothing of a surface you will need to hone all blades on a fine stone prior to doing it.   I suspect, from what I have read and from my exercise,  that cryogenically treated blades in machines and hand plane blades that are just doing roughing out work there may be some extra life in the blades before resharpening is required.

 I hope to do some more work in this regard to satisfy my own curiosity about cryogenically treating blades, and I will  certainly let you know what I find out. I currently offer cryogenically treated blades for my Smoothing and Trying planes, which was based on the very good reports about this treatment; however,  I will not be going to the extra expense to offer this treatment on the other blades I make as I am certainly not convinced there is a big advantage for most woodworkers at this stage. If any subscriber has information on this subject which may add to this debate I would certainly be interested in what you have to say.

I didn't do any testing of the blades when used as a scraper, so I'm not sure if the cryogenically treated blades offer an advantage in this case.   I still maintain from previous experience that the HSS 18% tungsten blades will out perform the 01 Toolsteel blades when used as a scraper blade.

 MAY SPECIAL - subscribers who purchase a Bargain Plane from www.hntgordon.com.au/bargainplane.htm will receive and additional 10 % discount off the advertised price which is already 15 % less than production plane prices. This special is available for the month of MAY 04 only. I have bargain planes and ex demonstration planes (no faults or blemishes) -  ironwood palm, ironwood jack, ebony 1" shoulder and 1 1/4" shoulder plane with a mystery wood( Terry couldn't work out what wood it is but it has worked out fine for this plane)! Prices for these are same as bargain planes in Ironwood, so if you choose an ebony or gidgee plane - the discount is approximately 25%. To order, please use the Bargain Plane order form on the web and make a note in the text box you are a newsletter subscriber for the additional 10% discount. Please also advise in the text box a description of the plane if there is more than 1 plane in it's size or type.

NEWSLETTER #2 March 04

 Hope this newsletter finds you well and your woodworking projects are taking shape. Further to my last newsletter I have added another section on sharpening a Smoothing or Trying plane blade.   Go to www.hntgordon.com.au/sharpeningsmoothingtryingblade.htm  and this page will take you through the process of sharpening your blade so you don't leave any of those undesirable marks on the surface of your wood.    If you sharpen in this manner you will find it will improve the finished surface on whatever you may be planing flat.

 For new subscribers, the past newsletter information is incorporated in the website so if you take a look at the 'Using Planes' section you will pick up on what has previously been published.

 Please feel free to contact us if you have a specific question on using or maintaining planes and if there is enough interest in a particular subject I will endeavour to cover it in a newsletter.

 Since opening the new workshop some woodworkers have found where we are and have taken a look.   We encourage others to call in and visit us and see how we make and maintain the quality in our hand made planes.  You will be more than welcome to use all the various types of planes we make and accessories that we have made.

 All the best until the next newsletter is posted.   I will cover planing a table/bench top in the next newsletter. Happy woodworking. 

NEWSLETTER #1 February 04

This is the first electronic news letter from HNT Gordon.  The news letter will be sent out when HNT Gordon has some information which may be of interest to you as a woodworker. This first news letter is to let you know that we have: setup a new website with secure payment options, more information on using planes, sections where you can purchase bargain planes or unique planes which come up, plus the section on collector planes which we have expanded to show more photos of the planes available.  We have also added some accessories to the website which we use ourselves to make woodworking easier and they are all very good quality products at a reasonable price. 

 We still support retail outlets which stock HNT Gordon planes so there is a list of retailers you can purchase planes from as before, but if your country doesn't have a retail outlet or your nearest retail outlet doesn't have what you are after please feel free to order through our website.

 This year is proving to be a busy one as we are in the process of building a new workshop and show room.   We expect to have the showroom complete by December this year so anyone visiting the Byron Bay area will be able to call in and see planes on display and planes being made.   We will let you know when the showroom is open and provide a map on how to find us.

 Unfortunately the Australian $ has increased in value significantly against the US$ so overseas customers will have to pay more for planes, so you will notice the US$ prices has increased on the website.  Who knows when this will change.

 After the workshop etc is complete and I have more time I hope to put more information on the website about using and looking after your HNT Gordon Planes, this will probably be early next year.
 

Email: planemaker  Ph: 612 6628 7222   Fax: 612 6628 7522
50 Northcott Cres,  ALSTONVILLE  NSW  2477    AUSTRALIA

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