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Read Terry's adventures when he purchased
Gidgee and
Snakewood (see also newsletter July 04)
Newsletter September
08
I will be again displaying my
tools at the The
Melbourne Timber and Working with Wood Show is on
24th-26th October 08. The venue for this years show has changed to the
Royal Melbourne Showgrounds at Flemington. Please call in for a
chat and see my demonstrations.
Australian Wood Review
has just announced its AWR Hand Tool Making Awards III
competition. The competition is open to all tool makers. Entries can
fall into the categories of hand planes, chisels, marking and measuring
tools, and jigs and devices. The only stipulation is that they must not
be currently available for purchase. AWR#38 and #49 featured the
brilliant results of previous competitions.
All details and entry forms are at:
http://www.woodreview.com.au
Just click on the AWR Hand Tool Awards III competition
icon. Entries close April 7, 2009.
I now have available High Speed Steel blades
for Aussie Jack Planes (50x95x4mm) @ AU $110 + post. They are on
the web site order form. |
Newsletter July 08
I will be attending the wood shows in Perth
on 8 -10 August and Canberra on 5-7 September. Please come and visit my
stand to see demonstrations and my range of tools.
A reminder that I offer saw
sharpening for the Adria saws that we sell. Prices for sharpening are
on the web. If you are attending the
Canberra wood show and need your saw sharpened, bring it along and I
will sharpen it on returning to my premises and then post it back to
you. Remember sharp saws are like sharp plane blades!
I have some firm orders for the
Hollows and Rounds which I intend to make before the Melbourne wood show
(24-26 Oct). If you would like to place an order to be included in
this batch please email me. These can be ordered singularly, in
pairs or in sets.
If you haven't visited the
Bargain Planes page on the website
recently, now is a good time as there a nice variety of specialty woods
on offer.
Also please remember if you are
travelling up this way for work or holidays you are more than welcome to
visit our showroom and workshop to look at or try out some tools.
|
Newsletter May 08
Hollows and Rounds
I have successfully tested the ½”, ¾” and 1” hollows and rounds. All
sizes will be 9” long and made in gidgee, except for special orders.
Currently I am making the blades up and I will have the planes available
for demonstration at the Brisbane (16-18 May) and Sydney (13-15 June)
Wood shows.
The hollows and rounds will cost AU $ ½ inch $160 ea, ¾ inch $170 and 1
inch $180. They will be made to order at this stage so allow about 1 – 2
months from time of ordering to supply. Orders can be made by email, the
planes will not be put on the web site ordering system at this stage.
I’m hoping to have the 1 ¼ inch size available for demonstration and
orders from the Melbourne (24-26 October) wood show.
There will be 4 standard sizes but if you require sizes in between these
will available in 2009. The other sizes available will be in 1/8”
increments but they will cost more due to the fact that the standard
size blades will need to be ground down and the body reduced to suit. I
suspect these additional cost will be about $40. To view photos,
click here.
I still have a few ironwood planes left, mainly shoulder planes, a few
spoke shaves, new Jack plane and palm smoothers. At the Brisbane show I
will be clearing these out at 10 – 15% of the normal price.
|
Newsletter March 08
For any school teachers looking for a rewarding
project for their classes this year we have in stock Aussie Jack and
Block kit planes available from $40. To receive the special price we
require a minimum order of 5 kits. Please inquire for details.
The 2008 Australian Quality Tools catalogue will be available in April.
The 20 page colour catalogue will feature all the toolmakers from 2007
plus Harold and Saxon Chisel and Tool Company. If you would like the
2008 version posted to you, please email us with your postal address and
include in the subject you would like the 2008 copy.
I received some feedback on the blade angle newsletter that I put out in
the last month which backed up my experience that blades sharpened with
a bevel angle greater than 40 degrees presented problems with planing
hardwoods. I would also like to hear about any experience that
subscribers might have had that go against my findings. It is all
interesting stuff so please let me know of your experience in this
regard. Thanks to the woodworkers that gave me some feedback on the
blade angle issue.
I am getting closer to starting work on manufacturing some hollows and
rounds and I have a small group of people who are interested in buying
them. I plan to make them in ½”, ¾” 1” and 1 ¼” sizes. They will be
available to purchase individually, in pairs or a set of 8 planes. If
you are interested please let me know, as it will help me to work out
what size first batch I will need to do. I hope to have some prices
available in next month’s newsletter.
For those that like old tools and machines, please follow the link to
take a look at a 16” jointer that I
recently restored. From what I can make out from the internet I think
this machine is some where between 100 to 120 years old. It has been
modified over the years with new style bearings but the basic machine is
like it was all those years ago and works like a dream. Happy
Woodworking Regards Terry
|
Newsletter February 08
All the best for 2008 and I hope you get some of
those woodworking projects underway and hopefully finished.
HNT Gordon moves into a new era this year whereby we are now using
gidgee as the main wood for making planes. I still have a few ironwood
planes left and you will probably see them come up on the bargain pages
over the year.
We now produce 15 different planes + the two kit planes. We are very
happy with how the spoke shaves and new A55's are going, and we think we
have ironed all the bugs out of these newer tools.
For the woodworkers in Australia I look forward to seeing you at the
wood shows but unfortunately for the overseas subscribers I can't see my
way clear this year to get overseas to do any wood shows. Maybe next
year.
If we can help you with your hand tools this year please feel free to
contact us. Remembering besides planes we also stock a range of high
quality marking out tools by Colen Clenton, Adria handsaws, Micheal
Connor workbench accessories and some sharpening gear.
Follow this link on Blade Angles
to the information that I promised last year. Hope you get something
from it.
If you no longer wish to receive HNT Gordon newsletters, please reply
with the subject Remove from Newsletter List. If you have a change of
email address, please email me with both old and new addresses. Regards
Terry Gordon Planemaker
PS. I had an unfortunate experience last year whereby a finance company
through their slick use of fine print caused me to pay an extra large
sum of money to take ownership of the equipment I was renting to buy. I
am reluctant to put this in my newsletter but I would feel bad if one of
my subscribers fell foul to the same type of thing. If you are (or you
know someone that is) renting or leasing anything through a finance
company it would be in your interests to contact me so I can let you
know what happened to me and you may be able to avert a financial
disaster.
|
Newsletter December 07
My staff and I would like to wish all subscribers a
Merry Christmas and happy new year and thankyou for your support
over the past year. I hope you have found the information in our
newsletters informative and useful woodwork knowledge. I am
planning on doing the following Australian wood shows in 2008 -
Brisbane, Sydney, Perth, Canberra and Melbourne. Please check the
website for details. HNT Gordon will be closing down over the Christmas
break, (end of trade Friday 21st December 2007 and re-opening Monday 7th
January 2008), so if you email me or place an order during this period
the response maybe 7 - 10 days for my reply. If you are visiting the
Northern Rivers of NSW and wish to call in to the showroom please phone
ahead and leave a message with a return phone number and I will see if I
can meet you. Happy woodworking. |
Newsletter May 07
Well I thought I was going to give you
some information on blade angles but it will have to wait as I’m waiting
on some feedback from another chap regards some discrepancies that have
crept into the terminology over the past few years.
Instead I will give an insight into how I made the new
A55 planes. "A" meaning adjustable and 55 meaning a 55 degree blade
pitch. Like the other planes I make you can also reverse the blade and
make it into a scraper.
Ever had trouble adjusting a plane that has a lever
cap and mechanical screw adjuster? I certainly have and it was a source
of frustration when I used my No4 Stanley plane. The usual thing was
when I got it adjusting nicely the blade was not held securely enough
and would move back as I planed wood or conversely when I got it so the
blade was held nice and tight it was impossible to get a smooth accurate
adjustment. And when you think about it these two things are always in
conflict. However, until I decided I was going to make a screw
adjustable plane I never really though much about it. I’m a pretty black
and white sort of fellow and grey usually doesn’t sit well with me
especially when it comes to tools. So when I want the blade held tight I
want it held tight and not compromised by having to move the blade while
it is held tight. Similarly when I want to move the blade I want a
smooth accurate adjustment so when I turn the knob I want a proportional
movement in the blade. And same again I don’t want to compromise this in
any way.
I certainly haven’t used every plane on the market
today and there are probably some good quality planes out there that
have appeared to achieve the compromise of being able to move the blade
while holding the blade tight, but as far as I’m concerned there is
still a compromise and when planing hardwoods it will probably let you
down at some stage. The other thing to consider here is that if the
lever cap is holding the blade securely enough so that it doesn’t move
when planing hardwoods then there must be an incredible mechanical
advantage in the adjuster to force the blade to move. To achieve this
large mechanical advantage some parts involved must be highly stressed
in some way, and to my thinking this stress must take its toll over many
years and inevitably that part will wear or break.
It didn’t take me long to realise that to make a good
adjustable plane I had to remove the compromise, whilst still making it
a quick easy process to adjust the plane.
I knew from my other planes that a wedge system would
certainly hold the blade securely so it was just a simple matter of
coming up with a way of being able to quickly loosen or tighten the
wedge. The penny dropped and a simple bolt (with a knurled knob) through
the wedge would provide the quick and easy way of tightening or
loosening the wedge. The swiveling brass abutments that I use in the
other planes worked in just fine, as it was necessary for the abutments
to swivel as the wedge was loosened or tightened. With a course thread
on this bolt it was amazing how much pressure could be applied to hold
the blade securely with less than a ¼ of a turn. I have purposely made
the knurled knob fairly small so you can’t over tighten the wedge, as
huge pressure is not required
Very simply the compromise was solved and all I need
to do to make a depth adjustment on the plane is to loosen the wedge
lever cap about 1/4 of a turn, do the adjustment which is nice and
smooth because the blade is allowed to move freely, then re-tighten the
lever cap wedge by a 1/4of a turn back the other way. All you need to do
is get in a habit of loosening the lever cap before any adjustment. A
point to make hear is that once you have set the depth, it will stay at
that depth because the blade is now held securely without compromise. It
is great to use a plane that you are not continuously readjusting the
blade because the blade keeps moving.
The adjuster is also very simple. It has a very fine
thread so the adjustment can be done in small increments and with
accurate machining and assembly I am achieving 0 to 1/8 of a turn
backlash which is really nice after you have used a plane that has 2
turns of backlash like my old Stanley. The other thing with this
adjuster is that you can make adjustments in or out and the blade will
hold nicely in position. With many adjusters because of the compromise
you usually have to be advancing the blade to get it to sort of hold
securely in position.
Another nice thing about this plane is that taking the
blade in and out is very quick and easy with no need to adjust the lever
cap holding screw to get the correct compromise.
The other part of the plane that I wanted to mention,
which I feel has significant improvements over other planes on the
market, is the shape we have used in the tote handle. Back in the old
day’s tote handles were made so that you could use a plane all day and
not get blisters or a sore wrist. Over the years the shape has been
bastardised by manufacturers because they wanted to make the handle
easier to make and as usual had economics in mind and not ergonomics. We
have reversed this and have gone back to a shape similar to the old one
so that at bench height when you push the plane the pressure is put
mainly in the palm of your hand which is at the extension of your arm
where the power from your upper body is concentrated. This is the most
efficient way you can push something using your hand. At the same time
the shape of the tote handle is such that your wrist will be straight
when you push the plane horizontally at bench height. All so often I
pick up a modern plane with a tote handle and when you push it
horizontally at bench height the pressure is applied to the web of your
hand between your thumb and index finger, so when you plane your wrist
will bend. This is OK for short periods of planing but if you do it for
long you will get a sore wrist and possibly wear a blister in that spot.
This is not rocket science but I am amazed at the poor shape of some
tote handle today.
Hopefully this newsletter has given you an insight to
how we strive to make planes better for the users. These new planes can
be seen by Aussie customers at most of the major wood shows this year or
by visiting our workshop. I have started sending a few planes out to
overseas shops but it will take a while for them to filter through and
be available in the USA and Europe. There are some good photos now on
our website www.hntgordon.com.au
if you wish to take a look.
If anyone has some questions about the new planes feel
free to contact me. |
NEWSLETTER FEBRUARY 07
It has taken a while to get to this news letter but the
good news is that I have made some improvements to the Aussie jack plane
with the addition of a tote handle and made it slightly longer. I think
this will make it an easier plane to hold for the roughing out work that
it does. In addition to that I have made a new smoothing and trying
plane which are the more traditional western design with a tote handle
and knob and they are fully adjustable by way of a screw adjuster. There
should be some info on the website about them in the near future with
sales starting some time in mid to late March. Visit
www.hntgordon.com.au/newproducts.htmThese planes are not to replace the current smoother
and trying planes but are to satisfy another part of the market that
like the more western style planes.
Some other changes that are occurring at HNT Gordon
planes this year are the phasing out of ironwood as the main wood used
in plane making and in 2008 gidgee will become the main wood used for
plane making. This is because I now have a reliable supply of gidgee,
which I help harvest, to ensure it is looked after from the word go.
This ensures that when the end product gets to the user it is the best I
can produce and I don’t have to fight the past problems associated with
getting ironwood that has lots of defects to deal with. Anyone that has
an ironwood plane should not see this as a problem because during the
plane making process I have ironed out any defects that were present in
the ironwood to ensure you got a defect free plane. This will however
save me time not having to deal with defects and getting a plane to the
point of finishing it only to find a hairline crack in the wood which is
very frustrating and leads to having to sell the plane as a second.
Additionally I have had to withdraw ebony as a main
wood for production planes this year as the cost of this wood has
clearly put it into the specialty plane category. So ebony planes will
be available but they will be made to the specialty standard making them
more expensive.
Also in March we will be launching the 2007 full
colour catalogue. This year 6 Quality Australian Toolmaker’s – Colen
Clenton, Peter Collins, Micheal Connor, Roger Gifkins, Terry Gordon and
Paul Williams have come together and will all feature in the one
catalogue. If you wish to have a catalogue sent to you, please request
one via the following link.
www.hntgordon.com.au/freebrochure.htm
The next newsletter will have some information on blade angles. Happy
Woodworking Regards Terry |
|
NEWSLETTER SEPTEMBER 06
This newsletter is on Straight Edges and Squares and sorry it is a bit
late in coming but in any case I hope the newer woodworkers will find it
handy information. Some of the more seasoned wood workers will probably
be aware the pitfalls with marking out tools but this may be a timely
reminder to check your tools are still in good shape.
These two basic tools are certainly very important for achieving
accuracy in our woodwork. If you are anything like me when I started out
making furniture from wood you will probably make some very poor
assumptions about the accuracy of the tools you are buying.
When I was getting started I purchased a square and straight edge,
both with reputable brand names and it certainly didn’t cross my mind
that I should check that they were straight and square. (Nor did I know
how to) As I progressed with my woodwork using these tools to ensure I
was getting things straight and square, I frequently came across
situations where it just didn’t make sense from a straight and square
perspective. Still I trusted these supposedly good quality tools and
just put theses problems down to my lack of wood working skill and
understanding of what is straight and square.
When someone finally suggested that I should check that my straight
edge and square were actually like they were supposed to be, I was a
little bit shocked to think that my good quality tools could be
inaccurately made. In any case I checked them for square and straight
and in both cases they were out, and I now understood why for many years
I couldn’t get things exactly straight and square. I was a bit
embarrassed to say the least. I laugh about it now, but I was thinking
the other day I should let as many people know as possible about this
issue, and whilst a lot of our subscribers would know about this problem
there are lots of new woodworkers that will benefit from ensuring their
squares and straight edges are actually like they are meant to be.
To check these things out there are a couple of simple little tests
to do which I will explain with a couple of photos on our website.
Follow these links and I will explain how it is done.
http://www.hntgordon.com.au/checkingyourstraightedge.htm
http://www.hntgordon.com.au/checkingyoursquare.htm
The Canberra wood show is on this weekend 8 – 10 September at
Exhibition Park, Budawang Building Canberra. I will be demonstrating my
planes, Colen Clenton tools and the Adria saws at stand 60 near Carba
Tec. I will have some Paul William replacement blades also, so bring
your old one along if you want to check the right size before buying
one. Hope to see you there if you live in the Canberra area.
The Melbourne wood show is also just around the corner on 20 –22 Oct.
At this show Colen Clenton and I will have a couple of other new tool
makers show off their new whares at our stand No 157. One is Making
chisels and the other a jig for sharpening all types of blades and
chisels. Hope to see you there also. Happy Woodworking
Regards Terry |
NEWSLETTER MAY 06
For those people near the Sydney
area, I am attending the Timber and Working with Wood Show at the Royal
Hall of Industries, Moore Park, Sydney on 2nd to 4th
June. My stand number is 53 (which has changed recently) and I hope you
will be able to visit my stand to see demonstrations and a chat. As you
come in the main entrance keep walking straight and you will find us in
about the middle of the hall.About 12 months ago I managed to get
some Budgeroo Burl and Red Malley. I have made a lovely plane in each
wood so far which you can view at
www.hntgordon.com.au/index.html
I do have a limited supply of this wood if any one wishes to order a
specialty plane. Please contact me via an email.
I recently went on a trip to western Queensland to get some Gidgee
wood – a great trip. Follow this link to read my story.
www.hntgordon.com.au/gidgee.htm
|
|
NEWSLETTER MARCH 06
This story is unrelated to planes but none the less it is a worthy
woodwork story that may help you out with your bandsaw if you own one.
Two years ago I was having trouble cutting up some large pieces (up
to 12" thick) of ironwood and ebony on my 36" band saw. In essence the
bandsaw blades I was using just couldn’t cope with cutting these very
hard and dense woods. I tried a myriad of blade types – carbon steel and
bi-metal of various tooth configurations. The bi-metal blades lasted
about 4 hours of cutting but it was hard going and the carbon blades
were lucky to last and hour. In the mean time my mate Micheal Connor
came across a tungsten tip bandsaw blade made by Lennox in the USA. He
purchased a 3-4 TPI variable pitch tungsten tip blade (this means there
are 3 teeth per inch followed by 4 teeth per inch) and it had a 3/8"
wide band. He nearly had a heart attack when he had to pay for it, but
when he got it home and got it running he was a happy camper. The finish
cut on medium density wood was comparable to being sawn by a quality
bench saw. Without hesitation I was round to his workshop with some
ironwood. It effortlessly cut this ironwood and left a superb finish, I
was amazed to say the least.
After a couple of beers with Mike I was convinced this blade was the
answer to my problems of cutting up large pieces of dense hardwoods.
I purchased a 3 TPI tungsten tipped blade and gave it a try. It cut
the ebony beautifully but on the large pieces of ironwood it was
struggling and in the end the ironwood started to rip the tungsten tips
of the blade – not good. I needed some expert advice so I contacted
Louis Ittura, who is the bandsaw guru in the USA. You can contact him at
email KALLL@comcast.net or a USA Phone number is 904 642 2802.
I explained the problem and what bandsaw I had and he said "Upgrade
the tension spring in your bandsaw and use a 3-4 TPI blade with a 1"
wide band and buy a tension meter so you can accurately set the tension
to 25 –30 000 PSI." To cut a long story short I did what he recommended
and this blade has been on my bandsaw for about 12 months and is still
going strong. I spent about AU $400 to get the blade, spring and tension
meter but it has paid for itself and more. I can accurately cut up all
my expensive woods with minimal kerf waste < 1.5mm, the finish saves me
time when machining wood in the next step, I save time by not having to
change band saw blades on a regular basis and the effort and time to
push the wood through the blade is significantly reduced.
If you have a band saw and you are not satisfied with how it works
fitting one of these blades and having it run at the right tension could
convert your bandsaw into a superb tool you can use in furniture making.
And at about US$1 per inch of blade it is well worth getting one. Also
these blades can be re sharpened; however, I haven’t had this done as
yet.
Lious Ittura has a catalogue he mails out and it is full of very good
information on bandsaws and how to get them working well, this is also
worth getting hold of.
I have been asked several times about making hollows and rounds,
which are paired planes for making as you would expect long hollow or
round shapes. They have several uses and used in conjunction with a
rebate plane you can make some very nice and unique mouldings for
furniture. Routers have largely done these planes out of a job but I was
trying to gauge the thoughts of other woodworkers on whether you think
they have a use in today’s furniture making. I would be looking at
making them in ½", ¾", 1" and 1 ¼". Any comments or feedback would be
appreciated.
We have made some changes to the HNT Gordon web site, which will make
it easier for our users to navigate to pages commonly used. You will
notice the ‘Collector Planes' and 'Unique Planes' options in the Tools
Sales page has been replaced by 'Specialty Planes / Gallery'. The
specialty planes are available for purchase as displayed while the
gallery has the photos of planes previously made and sold for viewing.
If you would like a plane made in any of the woods from the gallery, it
will need to be ordered. A photo of the plane can be emailed to you for
your approval of the wood colour/grain etc during the production stage
if you wish. The reason for this change is that it is very hard to keep
a full range of exotic woods available and the colours and grain
patterns can very so much some pictures can be misleading as to what the
next one will look like.
The Bargain Planes page will remain the same, so if you are after a
bargain you will just have to keep an eye on it.
New for 2006 is an 8-page full colour catalogue. All the HNT Gordon
planes are listed including specifications and purpose for each item.
Colen Clenton's Tools, Adria Saws and other accessories are also
included. You can view the first page at
http://www.hntgordon.com.au/freebrochure.htm
If you would like one posted to you, please email us ensuring you
include your full postal address.
Last year we introduced the flat sole spokeshave and now HNT Gordon
also has the curved sole spokeshave available. You can view the
spokeshaves at
http://www.hntgordon.com.au/prodspokeshave.htm
In 2006 I will be attending many of the woodshows offered in the
capital cities of Australia. Dates, venues and stand numbers are listed
at
http://www.hntgordon.com.au/woodshowattendance.htm
Happy Woodworking Terry Gordon.
|
|
NEWSLETTER
DECEMBER 2005
My staff and I would like to wish all subscribers a
Merry Christmas and happy new year and thankyou for your support
over the past year. I hope you have found the information in our
newsletter informative and useful woodwork knowledge.
We have recently updated the website with a full
range of Colen Clenton's marking out tools with some very good
pictures and information on how to use them and why you would use a
certain tool over any other. This year I sent some ebony that I
use in my planes down to Colen to use in making his tools. Some of
these ebony tools have started to become available on my website and
will continue to be throughout 2006. Please enquire if you are
interested in any of Colen's tools in ebony.
In October this year we released the flat bottom
spoke shave at the Melbourne wood show. The response at this show
was a bit tentative mainly due to the handle shape and consequently
I have refined the shape some what but essentially it has remained a
squarish shape due to the benefits outlined in my last newsletter.
Hopefully Aussie woodworkers will warm to the handle shape so they
can benefit from the ability of this shave to plane against the
grain when planing curved shapes in furniture work. Conversely at
the two USA shows I attended in November this year the response was
great and I sold out of the spoke shaves at the first show -
interesting how these things work!
When I finish writing this news letter I will be out
to the workshop to continue making the curved sole spoke shave. I
have pretty much nailed down how I will make it with a full
brass sole. I ended up making the radius 3" which was a good
compromise to optimise it for furniture work. It won't be able to
get into those real tight areas but it will handle the vast majority
of curves found in furniture. There are a few features that I want
to try out when it is made and I will report back next year with the
results. I expect this tool will be available in Feb 2006. In the
USA, the flat bottom shave is available now through Craftsman Studio
and the Japan Woodworker. Also as a result of the two woodworking
shows I did in the US both these stores have decided to stock the
short shooting board made by Micheal Connor.
For some time now I have been collecting
the straightest and best pieces of Ironwood from big trees to
release a Jointing plane. I have been making a few on special
orders but I have decided to add them to my standard line of planes
in 2006 but only available in ironwood, but the odd one may be
available in gidgee and ebony on a special order. The standard
length will be 27" long but they can be shorted a little if required
depending on peoples requirements. This plane will take over where
the trying plane (small jointer) starts to struggle which is at
about the 6' (1.8m) mark for jointing boards. So if you are into
making long tables this plane will be a benefit.
I am planning on doing more Aussie wood shows in
2006 including Brisbane, Sydney, Perth, Melbourne and possibly
Canberra. Please check the website for details.
HNT Gordon will be closing down over the Christmas
break, so if you email me or place an order during this period the
response time maybe 7 to 10 days for my reply. If you are visiting
the Northern Rivers of NSW and wish to call in to the showroom,
please phone ahead and leave a message with a return phone number
and I will see if I can meet you. Happy Woodworking Terry Gordon.
|
NEWSLETTER #9 SEPTEMBER 05
In this newsletter I would like to share the
experience of making a flat bottom spoke shave and point out to
woodworkers what I found to be the important parts to a spoke shave
that has good controllability and can produce the goods when
it comes to planing from a straight wood surface into a curved wood
surface without tearout or loosing control of the cut leaving you
with that smooth desirable finish.
At this point I would like to say there is no
perfect spoke shave the same as the is no perfect plane that can do
all tasks. But like the other planes that I make I feel I have
produced a tool that is very easy to setup and adjust, it can plane
against the grain on most woods and has good controllability which
is rare with a lot of spoke shaves on the market. This spokeshave
has a 50mm (2") wide blade that is 4mm thick, so no problems with
chatter and a wide blade for the big to small tasks.
I have put a brass sole on it for a couple of
reasons, the first being the ability to resist wear which became an
obvious problem when I started to shape some hard pieces of wood
using a proto type wooden sole shave. This is not a problem on a
wooden sole plane as you have a much larger surface area working on
a flat surface, but this is not the case with a spoke shave. The
other reason was so that I could close up the space behind the
blade, not something you will see in other spoke shaves but it
proved to be a huge bonus with controllability when doing the
outside of a curved surface. The gap in the sole where the blade
protrudes is less than 3 mm (1/8") and on most spokeshaves this is
about 5mm or more. The mouth opening is the same as my smoothers,
0.3mm optimum with a maximum of 0.5mm. By reducing the total gap in
the sole to less than 3mm improves controllability as it is easier
to find the blade when you are doing outside curves and the depth of
cut is much more constant as you go from a flat surface to a curved
surface. This is where a lot of spoke shaves have control and
tearout problems because the large gap in the sole leads to the
depth of cut increasing as you go into the curve, and while it is
only a very small change in depth it can be enough to cause tearout
and/or make it hard to control the shave as the depth of cut
changes. I feel this is a large improvement on the spoke shaves
that I have used.
The next difference of my shave to the others is a
higher blade angle. I have opted for 55 degrees. 60 degrees
proved to be too high and caused controllability problems and 50
degrees proved to be a problem for tearout. The 55 degrees proved
to be a great compromise angle. Most spoke shaves you will have
used will have been 45 - 50 degrees in the Stanley metal type, or
very low angle at 20 -25 degrees in the old wooden types or the new
veritas type. The low angle type are certainly very good with the
grain and if you are making straight grain spokes going with the
grain they are hard to beat, but they are very average as soon as
you come against the grain. The standard Stanley type shaves,
particularly ones with small soles and high handles, had control
problems and tearout was present in most cases.
For controllability I have put a maximum amount of
sole in front of the blade as I could (24mm) and this certainly
improved control when the shave is used to do large radius internal
curves or flat surfaces.
The handle shape on the HNT Gordon spoke shave is
also to do with controllability. Whist the handles may look a bit
squarish and bulky they are a Huge advantage with controlling the
spoke shave. The top of the handle is parallel with the sole and
the front and back of the shave is 90 degrees to the sole giving you
a great set of references to help you find the blade on curved
surfaces. Hand eye coordination is very important with using a
spoke shave and I felt this style handle offered a great reference
to help you keep the blade cutting on a curved surface. I'm not
100% sure why this is but I feel it lies in the fact that our mind
and hands can handle parallel and 90 degree problems but change it
to a more complex angle from 0 - 90 degree and our hand eye
coordination computations start to falter. The handle is also very
low set down with the blade. This is essential for control.
Sadly I couldn't include my usual scraper function
with the spoke shave as there was control problems with doing it and
it stopped me from closing the gap on the sole which was important
for control issues. As such this spoke shave is not capable of
planing against the grain on curved shapes once you get up into the
dense cranky woods such as jarrah etc. It did handle a quite hard
oak (suspect it was American White Oak) and planed against the grain
on an outside curve without too much difficulty. If I get feedback
that customers want a spoke shave to do the most difficult woods I
will look at doing a scraper spoke shave.
However, my next tool will be the round bottom
shave and I was looking at about a 3" to 5" radius on the sole but
I will experiment with this, and any feedback from subscribers is
welcome on what they have found to be a good radius. Also I will
make it so that you can modify the radius to suit a particular task
if required.
The setup of the shave is the same as the other
planes I make and adjusted by taping the body in front of the throat
and the adjustment works very well for fine adjustment. This is a
welcome bonus if you are familiar with a Stanley No 64 which I have
done a lot of my spoke shave work with, for those not familiar with
the Stanley 64 it is a bitch to adjust.
This shave is capable of taking very fine shaving
through to quite thick shavings (0.3mm) making it quite versatile on
a variety of jobs. Spokeshaves in ironwood with a TS blade start at
$150. To view the spokeshave, go to
www.hntgordon.com.au/prodspokeshave.htm
Thankyou to those readers in the US that replied to
my request to borrow a workbench for the woodshows. I have a bench
now and am really looking forward to this visit. If you can attend
one of the shows, please come and make yourself known to me, I am
always glad to meet other wood workers. The dates are 28 - 30 Oct
for San Mateo and 4 - 6 Nov for the Costa Mesa Show.
At the Melbourne Wood show, on 7 - 9 October, I am
in stand no. 157. I have just received 5 Ebony handle saws from
Adria Toolworks and will be bringing them to Melbourne. I will have
2 Dovetail $220 ea, 2 RIP and 1 X Cut $240 ea. If any readers are
attending the show and have special requests for my tools, please
advise ASAP so I can pack it with my stock. Happy Woodworking, Terry Gordon.
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NEWSLETTER #8 AUGUST 05
Latter this year I will be exhibiting at the San Mateo
and Costa Mesa Woodworking shows in California USA. The dates are 28
- 30 Oct for San Mateo and 4 - 6 Nov for the Costa Mesa Show. If
you are from around these areas it would be great to meet you. I
will be bringing a full range of planes to demonstrate and sell,
including some planes made from the rare and beautiful Australian and
exotic woods. I have been putting aside some tools made from the
nicest woods I have including some snakewood. With a bit of luck I may
have my new spoke shave available by then also. Additionally I will
be bringing some of Colen Clenton's Marking Out tools including his
adjustable Squares and Cutting/Marking Gauges. If you haven't seen
his tools it will be worth a look to see why his tools are gaining a
very good reputation world wide.
If you are planning on coming to the show and you
would like me to bring any particular planes over please let me know.
This will save you a bit on postage and paying by cash will help you
twist my arm for a discount.
Between the two woodworking shows I will have a bit
of spare time so if anyone is involved in a woodworking group that is
between San Francisco and San Diego I am happy to call in and
demonstrate my tools and talk to your group about planes in general.
If this is of interest to anyone feel free to email me so we can see
if we can work out a date that is suitable.
Lastly I may need to chase down a workbench to
demonstrate on for the Costa Mesa Show. If anyone lives close by and
would like to loan their bench out for the weekend I would be happy to
pay them by the way of a plane. I will be able to pick the bench up
and return it.
Sorry I don't have any interesting bits about planing
this time, getting the spoke shave designed and made is taking its
toll.
Happy Woodworking. Regards Terry
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I have recently reviewed the
Frequently Asked Questions and Answers web page and updated information
on chip breakers and optimum mouth spacing for a smoothing plane. The
topic of mouth spacing is particularly subjective and many opinions
abound on the subject but the more I learn about it the more convinced I
have become that having a planing and scraping option in a plane is the
best compromise to deal with tearout. Go to
http://www.hntgordon.com.au/faqs1.htm to take a look at my latest
thoughts on the subject.
There are a few rumours out
there that I plan on releasing 2 spoke shaves this year. A flat bottom
one and a curved one. It is true as I started the rumour. I have
started to dry the wood for the spoke shaves and have nailed down the
design. I have also added a couple of machines to help make them and
expect to make some proto types fairly soon.
Can't promise any date at
this stage but I hoping to have them for the Melbourne show in
October. They will initially be available in ironwood, ebony and
Gidgee and latter on I will make them available in the exotic woods as
collector planes. My challenge is to make a spoke shave that can plane
against the grain so you can do curved surfaces by planing in one
direction. If anyone is interested in getting a HNT Gordon Spoke shave
let us know and we will start a list. There will be no obligation to
buy the spoke shave by putting your name on the list, but it will help
ensure you get one this year if that is your intention. Happy woodworking Regards
Terry Gordon
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NEWSLETTER
#6 April 05
For those who live in the
Sydney area, I am displaying and demonstrating my planes and other tools
you see on my website at the 'Out of the Woodwork - A festival of
traditional woodwork and rare trades' show on Saturday 7th and Sunday
8th May 05 at Rouse Hill Estate, Windsor Rd, Rouse Hill. The show is
being hosted by the Historic Houses Trust. It should be a very
interesting show if you like using hand tools and I would say
you will get a lot of good information from the demonstrators
attending.
This year I will not be
having a stand at the Brisbane Working with Wood show because of an
issue with the organisers, so I appologise in advance if you were
wanting to talk to me about my planes. However, my planes will be on
display at Chris Vesper's Tool stand and Chris will be demonstrating my
tools on limited basis. Paul Williams (Academy Saws) will also be
helping Chris on his stand so if you need information about his
replacement plane blades for old tools you will be about to catch him
there. Please check my web site closer to the show dates (20 -22 May)
for Chris' stand number. I will be attending the Sydney show in June.
Some time ago I sent some
ebony to Eddie Sirotich who make the Adria saws and we now have some in
stock with ebony handles. They really do look very nice and don't
expect they will last long. We are still also stocking the Adria Saws
with the standard Bubinga handles. There is a photo on the web site of
an ebony handle saw. Ebony handle saws are AU $30 more than the Bubinga
saws.
http://www.hntgordon.com.au/adriatoolworks.htm
Colen Clenton has given me
some of his tools that he believes are not up to first rate. These tool
will be for sale via my website as they become available. Colen has an
extremely high standard so if you are lucky enough to purchase a bargain
tool of Colen's you will still have a fine looking tool as they will
generally only have a minor visual blemish. I will be selling these
items at the standard discounted rate I sell my bargain planes for ie
15% off the retail price plus postage.
Last Friday I was again
involved in judging the hand tool competition run by the Australian Wood
Review, and boy we have some talented people out there. Do yourself a
favour and get hold of the AWR magazine when it comes out in Jun and
take a look.
Until next time, happy
woodworking and of course feel free to contact me if you want any
specific information.
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NEWSLETTER
#5 March 05
It has taken a while for me
to get to writing this newsletter, simply because I've been very busy
with making planes and expanding the business is some small ways. So
sorry it has taken so long to send out another newsletter to you.
A couple of years ago I was
involved with judging a tool competition run by the Australian Wood
Review (AWR) Magazine and it was very successful with some very good
tools being submitted from Australia and overseas. Due to the success
of the last competition they are running this competition again. I
personally think there is lots of potential for other woodworkers out
there to make a living out of making high quality tools and this
competition could be a springboard for anyone contemplating this idea.
So if you have made any hand tools or jigs or would like to make some
the closing date is approaching pretty fast. Go to this link for some
more information.
http://www.woodreview.com.au/competitions/handtool/
The age old argument about
how wide the mouth on a plane should be still comes up occasionally and
I still believe there is no perfect answer for all the different woods
we plane, using all the different tools with various blade angles and
blades made from various steels. But I did have a case recently where
a chap had a HNT Gordon smoothing plane with a 0.5 mm mouth spacing and
was getting some tearout on some figured Tasy Oak which is a Eucalypt
not actually an Oak.
I made another plane for him
with a 0.15mm mouth spacing which solved the problem. So this was a
definite case where the very small mouth spacing did the job. The only
problem with this is that this plane will be very much limited to taking
very fine shavings and the shaving may catch on occasions. That being
said this fellow had a particular task and was happy to accept the other
issues. I would be happy to make a plane for anyone who requires this
size mouth spacing. However, my experience tells me that a mouth
spacing of 0.3 to 0.5 mm (which is my tolerance for a smoother) is still
the best all round spacing for a smoother. I say this because if a
wood has a tendency to tearout with a 0.3 mm mouth spacing in a plane
with a 60 degree blade pitch, as a general rule it is probably a wood
better suited to smoothing with a scraper. Which is simply achieved
by reversing the blade in a HNT Gordon Plane. In any case If you have
trouble smoothing a particular wood I would be happy to hear about it as
it builds up the overall picture on how to best use planes to smooth
wood. And where possible I will help you solve your problem.
I am currently writing an
article for the Australian Wood Review on sharpening and some
interesting bits came out of it as I analysed how I actually went
about sharpening lots of blades as part of making planes. Quite
often when you do something on a regular basis you don't really think
about how you are achieving it and as a consequence when you show
someone or describe it to someone there are lots of little but important
things that are missed or not passed on to the other person. This
story will come out in about May and is worth reading if you would like
to improve your sharpening and it will dispel some of the myths that
have developed with sharpening over the years, from what I believe is
largely due to sales people trying to sell certain sharpening products.
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NEWSLETTER
#4 July 04
Now the woodshows have started, time just seems to be
slipping away. For any subscribers in Adelaide, Perth and Canberra,
be aware those shows are just around the corner. Full details are on
the website at
www.hntgordon.com.au/woodshowattendance.htm, and I will be there
at all shows. Remember talking to me at these shows is a great way
of learning about the HNT Gordon planes you have, and picking up
little tips on using planes can save you lots of time in the workshop.
Not to mention improving your woodwork projects.
At the coming woodshows (except Adelaide as I will be
a guest on MIK stand) I will also have: Colen Clenton's marking out
tools, Micheal Connors Woodworks workbench and accessories, Paul
Williams (Academy) replacement HSS irons for most of the old
Stanley/Record planes, and some new hand crafted hand saws made by
a chap in Canada. All these tools are made by talented craftsman who
value their reputation hence make tools with quality in mind. I have
personally used these tools and can recommend them without
hesitation.
I recently travelled to the USA to pick up some
snakewood (Piratinera guianensis) which I plan to make planes out of.
I suspect it is the most expensive wood in the world and after my
experience with buying 300 kg of this wood I now know why. I will
share my snakewood story with you and I suspect you will
appreciate why anything made from this wood should be treasured and
looked after. For those wood nuts amongst you this story may give
you an insight into how crazy things can get when you start
collecting certain woods.
Besides the fact that Snakewood is very beautiful and
extremely unique this wood is very hard to acquire. There are many
pitfalls with it and the lady that I purchased it from told me early
in our negotiations that it is not only called snakewood because it
looks like snakeskin, but this wood can bite you very badly, with the
venom testing the resilience of your finances if you are not
careful. After waiting about 18 months (with a large deposit
paid) I was off to the USA to look at the snakewood. After tuning up
an 18 inch Taiwanese Bandsaw at the Lumber Yard I was able to cut the
logs into manageable sizes and I was very relieved to know that the
wood I had spent considerable money on was very good quality wood in
sizes large enough to make all the different size planes without too
much wastage. What a relief! I managed (with some tense moments) to
get some snakewood back on the Qantas Jet with me, but the majority of
the wood is still in transit on a ship so the saga continues. I'm
not celebrating yet but I do feel a sense of being lucky in this case
so far after hearing a story from a wood merchant in Los Angeles. This
wood merchant purchased 6000 pounds of snakewood only to get 600
pounds of good quality snakewood (10% recovery). The rest was second
and third grade wood which is very difficult to sell. This can happen
because this wood can crack very easily if it is not looked after very
carefully (read treat with kids gloves) after it is cut down and
quite often large parts of the logs don't have any snakeskin like
figure in them. If this is the case and the figure is fairly plain you
certainly can't demand high prices for the objects you make just
because it is called snakewood.
Ensuring there is good figure in the whole log is
very difficult just by looking at the log, you may see the snakeskin
look on the outside of the log (which is a positive sign) but this may
be just skin deep and the rest could be quite plain. The best way to
check there is good figure through the log is to clean up both ends of
the log so you can see the growth rings clearly. The end of the log
will generally be a dark reddish brown colour and from the centre or
pith of the log you will see like a bomb burst of black lines
emanating to the outside of the log. If these lines stop half way
out so will the nice figure. So if you can see the nice figure on
the outside of the log and this bomb burst figure extending all the
way out on the ends of the log it is a "beauty"! Or at least it
should be a good one and you have done all you can to ascertain what
the figure is like. If your wood merchant will split the log in half
this will give you a better idea. I suspect for most woodworkers who
just want a single piece of snakewood the best bet is to buy a piece
cut to size. Snake wood is sold by weight and cut to size it costs
about 4 times as much compared to buying it in log form. But unless
you know what you are looking for, paying more for a piece cut to size
is a very smart option.
As I mentioned acquiring the snakewood is difficult,
it comes from the top end of South America, Surinam, Venezuela and a
couple of other countries close by. It would appear from some of the
correspondence I had with the lady I purchased the wood from that it
is very difficult to deal with wood merchants in these countries,
email is not in use and correspondence is by written letter. In
addition the changing customs laws in the USA due to terrorism are
making life difficult also. Below are 2 emails I recieved from "The
Lumber Lady" who operates from YUMA Arizona USA..
"Hi Terry -
Thought you could use a little update on the Snakewood drama. From
what I have gathered from speaking with my import broker and what I
have been reading, combined with what my Snakewood supplier has been
saying, it seems the U.S. Customs Bureau has mandated that any import
shipments have to be by the container load only; and that small
shipments are no longer permissible because there are a limited number
of inspectors and they want to be sure to be able to inspect every
shipment for drugs, weapons, and .....terrorists or terrorist-oriented
activities. From the standpoint of security this makes a lot of sense,
but from my standpoint, it creates some inconvenience as these
regulations have taken place just in the last few weeks; and were
instituted so swiftly and arbitrarily that they caught everyone by
surprise. Furthermore, the inspection procedures have been complicated
by another regulation that advance electronic notification has to
precede all shipments, and some shipments have been caught halfway
betwixt and between... while the red tape of retroactive notification
is being activated. What this means is that my supplier must only ship
a certain amount of material. What he is going to do is ship
everyone's orders to me and I will disburse them. This will allow him
to combine all his shipments into one. The one shortcoming of this
idea is that he has to wait until he has enough orders to combine to
warrant this manner of shipping. He will need 14 orders about the
size of ours and so far he has about 8 of those strung together. This
all is likely to create some further delay. But, since it is going to
cost him $1,200.00 to ship the full container, (as opposed to $65.00
in the past) the only recourse is either to kick in the additional
$1,200.00 shipping or wait a little longer. He has already purchased
600 lbs of Snakewood logs to send, so any notion of his refunding my
deposit (and I suggested it) is without merit as he has spent the
money and cannot expect any refund from HIS supplier. As I had
previously said, I have been dealing with this person for about
4 years and he has always come through like a champ for me, so I
reckon the thing to do is keep calm and wait until the situation irons
itself out. I imagine small shipping agents like FedEx and UPS will
scream their heads off and changes will ultimately be made. In the
meantime I will join in the fray by writing to my congressman stating
a particularly unfriendly response to these changes. If you have any
questions or suggestions, I am certainly open to new ideas, as is my
supplier."
"Hi Terry -I am copying
the letter I received today from my Snakewood supplier. I'll let
you know when I hear from my import broker.
Kindest Regards,
Judith"
Dear Judith, I'm sorry for not responding earlier because my papers, licenses,
were still a problem but we are now ready and stronger than before.
This has cost me a lot of money and prayer to settle and OUR LORD has
provided in all my needs. I am also thankful to you for the patience
and support that you gave me and that our business and relationship
will get on a higher level, because it's not the money we earn makes
us, but righteousness based on the truth. We have your wood ready for
shipment on Monday the 22nd of march. Once again, my apologies for the
inconvenience.
After this letter was sent it still took to the end
of May for the snakewood to arrive in Yuma Arizona. It was like
working in slow motion.
I now have some snakewood in the kiln drying and
trust me it is testing my skill level in drying wood. To take a look
at some photos of the snake wood go to
www.hntgordon.com.au/snakewood.htm on the website.
I suspect when I make the first plane from this
beautiful snakewood all will be forgotten and with a rush of blood to
the head I will probably be crazy enough to do it again. That's if
my wife doesn't shoot me before hand.
I hope you enjoyed this little story about buying
snakewood, I think it helps put in perspective why snakewood is so
expensive.
Until next time happy woodworking and remember if you
have any questions etc about the tools I make and sell please feel
free to contact me.
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NEWSLETTER
#3 May 04
The year seems to be
slipping away very quickly and with the Australian Woodworking shows
starting very soon I'm sure the pace will only get faster. For anyone
attending the wood shows in the major capital cities please stop and say
G'day. The shows I will be attending and the stand No's are posted on
the website at
www.hntgordon.com.au/woodshowattendance.htm
In this newsletter I would
like to impart some of my knowledge on planing a table top flat. There
are lots of ways to do this and my way is certainly not the only way but
I hope you will find the information useful if you are planning on
tackling this task in the near future. Go to www.hntgordon.com.au/planingtabletop.htm to
view this information. There are some nice pictures and text to
explain the process.
When I started this task my
main aim was to get the bench top flat so I could use the bench, but I
also wanted to test out some plane blades which had been deep
cryogenically treated. Flattening this top involved a lot of planing
so it was a reasonable chance to test several different blades on the
same piece of wood. I had two HSS 18% tungsten blades and two 01
Toolsteel blades all hardened to about Rc 62, one of each type of blade
were cryogenically treated and the other two were not. After planing
for 30 minutes with each blade I could not notice any difference in the
blades ability to take a shaving and under a strong magnifying glass the
wear on each edge looked very similar, in that they all had very
small chips out of the edge randomly along its length. I suspect all
four blades could have kept planing for at least another 30 minutes
without too much trouble. However, when it came to doing the finishing
passes with the smoothing plane I didn't consider any of the blades were
sharp enough to get that perfectly smooth surface that requires no
sanding. Consequently I touched up one of the blades on a 6000 grit
stone prior to doing the final smoothing. Whilst this little exercise
is inconclusive I am starting to get the feeling that cryogenically
treated blades may not have some of the big advantages that some reports
have indicated. I am going to do some more tests, but I feel at this
stage when it comes to the final smoothing of a surface you will need to
hone all blades on a fine stone prior to doing it. I suspect, from
what I have read and from my exercise, that cryogenically treated
blades in machines and hand plane blades that are just doing roughing
out work there may be some extra life in the blades before resharpening
is required.
I hope to do some more work
in this regard to satisfy my own curiosity about cryogenically treating
blades, and I will certainly let you know what I find out. I currently
offer cryogenically treated blades for my Smoothing and Trying planes,
which was based on the very good reports about this treatment;
however, I will not be going to the extra expense to offer this
treatment on the other blades I make as I am certainly not convinced
there is a big advantage for most woodworkers at this stage. If any
subscriber has information on this subject which may add to this debate
I would certainly be interested in what you have to say.
I didn't do any testing of
the blades when used as a scraper, so I'm not sure if the cryogenically
treated blades offer an advantage in this case. I still maintain from
previous experience that the HSS 18% tungsten blades will out
perform the 01 Toolsteel blades when used as a scraper blade.
MAY SPECIAL - subscribers
who purchase a Bargain Plane from
www.hntgordon.com.au/bargainplane.htm will receive and additional 10
% discount off the advertised price which is already 15 % less than
production plane prices. This special is available for the month of MAY
04 only. I have bargain planes and ex demonstration planes (no faults or
blemishes) - ironwood palm, ironwood jack, ebony 1" shoulder and 1 1/4"
shoulder plane with a mystery wood( Terry couldn't work out what wood
it is but it has worked out fine for this plane)! Prices for these are
same as bargain planes in Ironwood, so if you choose an ebony or gidgee
plane - the discount is approximately 25%. To order, please use the
Bargain Plane order form on the web and make a note in the text box you
are a newsletter subscriber for the additional 10% discount. Please also
advise in the text box a description of the plane if there is more than
1 plane in it's size or type.
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NEWSLETTER
#2 March 04
Hope this newsletter finds you well and your
woodworking projects are taking shape. Further to my last newsletter I
have added another section on sharpening a Smoothing or Trying plane
blade. Go to
www.hntgordon.com.au/sharpeningsmoothingtryingblade.htm and this
page will take you through the process of sharpening your blade so you
don't leave any of those undesirable marks on the surface of your
wood. If you sharpen in this manner you will find it will improve
the finished surface on whatever you may be planing flat.
For new subscribers, the past newsletter information
is incorporated in the website so if you take a look at the 'Using
Planes' section you will pick up on what has previously been
published.
Please feel free to contact us if you have a specific
question on using or maintaining planes and if there is enough
interest in a particular subject I will endeavour to cover it in a
newsletter.
Since opening the new workshop some woodworkers have
found where we are and have taken a look. We encourage others to
call in and visit us and see how we make and maintain the quality in
our hand made planes. You will be more than welcome to use all the
various types of planes we make and accessories that we have made.
All the best until the next newsletter is posted. I
will cover planing a table/bench top in the next newsletter. Happy
woodworking.
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NEWSLETTER #1 February 04
This is the first
electronic news letter from HNT Gordon. The news letter will be sent
out when HNT Gordon has some information which may be of interest to
you as a woodworker. This first news letter is to let you know that we
have: setup a new website with secure payment options, more
information on using planes, sections where you can purchase bargain
planes or unique planes which come up, plus the section on collector
planes which we have expanded to show more photos of the planes
available. We have also added some accessories to the website which
we use ourselves to make woodworking easier and they are all very good
quality products at a reasonable price.
We still support retail
outlets which stock HNT Gordon planes so there is a list of retailers
you can purchase planes from as before, but if your country doesn't
have a retail outlet or your nearest retail outlet doesn't have what
you are after please feel free to order through our website.
This year is proving to
be a busy one as we are in the process of building a new workshop and
show room. We expect to have the showroom complete by December this
year so anyone visiting the Byron Bay area will be able to call in and
see planes on display and planes being made. We will let you know
when the showroom is open and provide a map on how to find us.
Unfortunately the
Australian $ has increased in value significantly against the US$ so
overseas customers will have to pay more for planes, so you will
notice the US$ prices has increased on the website. Who knows when
this will change.
After the workshop etc
is complete and I have more time I hope to put more information on the
website about using and looking after your HNT Gordon Planes, this
will probably be early next year.
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